Yesterday was my last day in Rome before the trip to Florence (we'll be back for a day at the end of my vacation), and MFAH and I spent it the best way possible: seeing Rome. At least the Trastevere part of it. One friend had recommended a shoe store in that neighborhood, and two other friends had recommended the same nearby restaurant.

No luck with the shoes; although there were some really cool ones, the ones that fit weren't comfortable and the ones that looked comfortable didn't fit. Then we had approximately four hours to wait until dinner. In Italy dinner doesn't seem to begin until 8:00 or so, but some restaurants that want to cater to early-rising tourists like us will open around 7:30. We wandered around the neighborhood, looking in shops but not buying anything, stopping once in a while for a coffee or a gelato, ducking into various churches and an art museum.

One of the churches, the basilica of Santa Maria, is probably in that top ten list I'll never actually write down. The floor plan dates from the 340s AD, making it one of the oldest churches in Rome, and its collection is distinguished by a bunch of Russian Orthodox art, which in my limited experience you don't usually see in Catholic churches. I'm not wild about religious art from the Renaissance and later, but I really love the two-dimensional icons and other art from earlier periods, especially Russian icons. This one had a seventh-century painting of the Virgin Mary on wood

Assisi was really wonderful, made more wonderful by the very helpful cab driver who turned out to be the very helpful and expensive cab driver. He drove us waaay up the mountain to the monastery / abbey where St. Clare died; it's still a working monastery (or maybe a friary) where smiling friars in their Franciscan robes talked to Japanese tourists and either sang beautiful hymns behind closed doors or listened to CDs of other people singing. The driver then took us even farther up the mountain to the retreat where, almost 800 years ago, St. Francis communed with the animals and mortified his flesh in a cave. We saw the tree where he communed and the cave where he mortified; the whole place seemed very organic, dug into the side of a mountain and constructed of rough-hewn rocks made from that mountain. It was cold, foggy, and windy outside, dark and winding and mysterious inside, which made it seem like a nice place to set a medieval murder mystery.

After a truly terrifying drive at high speeds down narrow roads lined with wandering tourists, Mr. Friendly Cab Driver revealed himself as Mr. Expensive Cab Driver-the meter, which had been running all this time concealed behind an ashtray, revealed that we didn't have enough cash to pay for the trip. He was gracious about taking less than he thought he deserved, but even more gracious when we arranged for him to come back at the end of the day and pick us up. We wanted to see St.
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